The power of the Eel

By Beryl Cook

Twenty-one year old Ratu Maiyale is the official announcer for the New Delhi Troop. He explains the ritual of the Fiji Indian firewalkers. But Ratu Maiyale himself is from the island of Beqa, off the southern coast of the main island ofViti Levu and visible from the capital Suva the home of the Fijian firewalkers. “We have been doing it for tourists for a long time,” he says.

It is a gift from a spirit which has been passed down through the generations and which today is a livelihood for many of the islanders who perform for tourists at the Pacific Harbour Cultural Centre, 50 kilometres outside Suva, driving west.

Legend has it that long ago there lived on the Island of Beqa a famous story teller named Dredre. He entertained the tribe of Sawau whose people lived on a mountain village called Navakeisese.

The people enjoyed his stories and gave him gifts in return. One day the villagers asked him what he would like. He replied that he would like the first thing they each caught when they were out hunting the next day. One warrior, Tui-ni-

Iviqalita, went fishing in a mountain stream. The first thing he caught was an eel wh j w . hen h , was . P out> assumed the shape of a spirit god. . \ ° t , Tul was proud of his catch but the S P lnt , G «! b< =gg ed ,‘° be re eased and ofbr,;d al [ kinds pf gifts in exchange. Tui refused them all, until the Spirit God ofrered to « lve hlm P ower over flre - To P rov e hls ? lft - a P u was and a lar g e £ ire 11 m lt- Stones were heaped on the |* re Beat. When the stones were white hot the spirit god jumped m. He called out ;, * n ’ to °’ anc * wa ‘ ked ° n th ' h °' s ‘° nes released the Spirit God and his descendants have been walking on white hot stones ever since.

Like the Indian firewalkers, the Fijian firewalkers prepare beforehand. “There are taboos, like no milk, no coconut milk no se . x fi° r wee^s beforehand, Ratu Maiyale said, But their’s is not a ritual with an end.

“It is a permanent thing,” he explains, “We can also heal burns. Recently one of the men at the resort burnt himself in the torchlighting ceremony. All that the people of Beqa have to do is touch the burn, and it becomes better.” □

Walking faithfuls: Fijian firewalkers on white-hot stones at Pacific Harbour