Ambrym: Millionaires’ Salad
pp. 49-50 · Read in the full issue
tropicalities
Ambrym: Millionaires’ Salad and Magic Men
In Vanuatu, a country of extreme contrasts in both geographical and human features, Ambrym is one of the strangest parts. The years of near isolation when this fascinating island could be reached only by boat, and then not easily, ended in the 1970 s with the construction of an airstrip. There are now two; at Ulei in the eastern corner and Craig Cove in the western. It is to the latter that most travellers come, though not in sufficient numbers to make the traffic crowded in any way, although Air Melanesiae operates a good service from Port-Vila with its Twin Otters and foreigners have an excellent connection from Sydney by way of the Boeing jets of Air Vanuatu.
Those who make the effort will be more than grateful for their own brillian e k aving done so.
For the visitor who has no village connections there is only one place to stay, the Relais d’Ambrym some kilometres from the airstrip along a black volcanic ash ribbon of road that leads through dense forest and over lava-tortured creek beds to what must be one of the most serene acres on earth.
The hotel is run by a French couple, Jean-Pierre and Marie Fischer, he with long experi ence of small hotels in West Africa and New Caledonia, she with a professional background as a chanteuse ; both with tremendous flair.
The journey is worthwhile for the peace and beauty of the site; it is rendered a rare and memorable occasion by the diversity and quality of the food provided and by the charm of the Fischers.
The Relais d’Ambrym sits in
Marie and Jean-Pierre Fischer ... “the best food in Vanuatu.”-Air Vanuatu photo.
a garden cut from the jungle on top of a cliff providing a magically commanding view of the ocean. It has six small detached bungalows, each one with its own attached bath room, and a central building containing a bar, lounge and dining area.
From the lounge the visitor may gaze seaward through a small colony of Ambrym’s fam ous tree fern figures to sunsets made to seem even more beautiful by the uniqueness of the location.
The Fischers serve the best food in Vanuatu, which makes it some of the best in the entire Pacific, and do so almost entire ly from local produce: seafood of absolute freshness, small game, fruit and heart-of-palm, known in lesser parts of the world as ’’Millionaires’ Salad.”
Visitors are met at the airstrip by Jean-Pierre and driven to the hotel from which horse riding, bush walks and visits to nearby villages may be arranged. The totally intrepid, with time to spare, may talk Jean-Pierre into organising for them a trip to Mount Benbow, one of the two active volcanoes oh the island, black ash from which has formed an ex traordinary ’’river” across the island.
The less achve will be able to while away an nour of a balmy afternoon swimming in rock pools kept at blood heat by subterranean hot springs, and when they become too warm it’s easy to slide over the rock ledge into cool and refreshing surf.
The people of Ambrym are noted for their carving and, particularly, for their sand draw ings. Chief Bong Mial, whose village can be reached from the hotel, is a skilful practitioner of both arts.
And then there is the magician called Gaston, who appears at the hotel to demons trate his ancient talents of levita tion .and spontaneous genera tion.
Ambrym, off the tourist track, with its brooding volcanoes and its reputation for magic, is an extraordinary place, where the mysterious may be observed in conditions of simplicity, and relaxation close to perfect.
Norman Douglas
TOP: Gaston. Ambrym’s magic man, shows he is a dab hand at sand-drawing as well.-Air Vanuatu photo. BELOW: Ambrym sand-drawing.-Air Vanuatu photo.