Cruising Tonga
pp. 52-53 · Read in the full issue
Yachting
By Sally Andrew
WHAT do you do when two of you want to cruise the South Pacific but one of you hates passagemaking? Robyn and A 1 Raam, of Cofis Harbour (near Sydney) Australia, solved their problem easily. A 1 takes Finesse II to the tropics with crew while wife Robbie catches a plane and meets him there. There’s no way she’d give up the pleasure of anchoring in exotic tropical ports and the joy of short inter-island day-hopping. Last season Robbie flew to Nuku’alofa and joined A 1 for the trip north from Tongatapu through the Ha’apai group to Vava’u.
Robbie and Al’s yacht, Finesse 11, is a
well-equipped and comfortable 46-foot ketch built by Amel in France. She is constructed of fibreglass, with a large comfortable centre-cockpit. A hard GRP dodger . cum . doghouse keeps cockpit and ° r r . c l ew m th <= W °J of conditions messe H has an electric furling headsail a hiding main and mizzen with the option of hoisting conventional (slab reefing) sails on separate adjacent
tracks. Equipped with all the bells and whistles, Finesse II has an unbelievable amount of storage space. Beneath her floorboards is a wine cellar capable of holding 182 bottles, dry even More and more cruising yachts are discovering the pleasures of Tonga’s sleepy H apai group. The Ha’apai is low coral islands and most are ringed with fine white coral sand beaches.
In Tonga: the Finesse II in the kingdom’s waters
‘More and more cruising yachts are discovering the pleasures of Tonga’s sleepy Ha’apai group’
Shoals and reefs present a
lavigational challenge to
nariners but in good weather he islands can be transited afely. Anchorages at Nomuka, lki, Ha’afeva, Joleva, Lifuka, Foa and ia’ano Island offer protection luring normal tradewind con litions. Ha’afeva has outstand ing snorkelling near the wreck f the Ekiaki , and Uoleva •oasts Tonga’s loveliest beach.
Tie beachcombing and slidi
ng on these mostly uninhabi ;d isles is outstanding.
West of the Ha’apai group re two volcanic islands that an be seen from the anchor ges at Ha’afeva and Uoleva.
'he volcanoes are especially striking at inset, with steam trailing out ufrom the orth end of the only active volcano in le Kingdom of Tonga. It was near here lat the infamous “Mutiny on the ounty” took place on April 28, 1789. aptain Bligh and his 18 crew were set drift by Fletcher Christian and his lutineers.
Pangai, the administrtive centre of the oup, is on the island of Lifuka. Lifuka still a pretty traditional island notwith anding her landing strip. Before a plane in leave or take off, pigs, dogs, goats id stray horses must be cleared off the inway which crosses the main road.
People in the Ha’apai are always flighted to greet outsiders whether they me by yacht or by plane, or aboard the ’ solution like Captain James Cook did in 74. A friendly reception is guaranteed, is encounters with the residents of Dmuka and Lifuka inspired Cook to 11 Tonga “The Friendly Archipelago”.
The best part of cruising for the Raams exploring new anchorages and seeing :al cultures first hand. By sailing, ibbie and Al can be more than just sual observers, and they like meeting ople. When Finesse II anchored off
Lotofoa Village on Foa Island, three
young ladies immediately befriended A 1
and Robbie. The local schoolteacher taught his class that the best way to learn English was to “adopt” an English speaker. So the girls adopted Robbie and a, I- n r it j i r Al. Full of life and with a keen sense of humour each was determmed to succeed in sc 001.
In contrast with the remoteness of the Ha’apai Group and the tenousness of her anchorages, Vava’u is a mecca for cruising boats. Vava’u’s many protected anchorages make her a sailor’s dream.
Mariner’s Cave awaits those wanting a little adventure. At the centre of it all is Neiafu with a daily market and a variety of amenities and facilities for visitors.
Several friends flew up to Vava’u from New Zealand to help celebrate Al’s 50th birthday at the Paradise International Hotel overlooking the Port of Refuge
Harbour. There are more than a dozen restaurants in Neiafu. The Bounty Bar and Cafe, the Double Dolphin, the Vava’u Guest House and La Paella (as well as the Paradise International Hotel)
are popular hangouts.
Always willing to lend a helping hand, Al invited three teachers and a class of 14 boys aboard Finesse II for some “practi cal” experience in navigation. Coastal navigation is an important part of the curriculum for Form Five schoolboys in Tonga. The day of the field trip the students worked out a compass course to take Finesse II out of the harbour. After a few false starts, the boys figured out the correct heading and from the main
harbour at Neiafu the young Tonga crew-in-training piloted Finesse II out of Vavau’s fiord-like en trance, past Port Maurelle. The students took plenty of compass bearings from ship to shore, con stantly plotting their position. By lunch time all the boys were exhaus ted. They teased
A 1 about teaching
at the palangi rate, then consumed 20 litres of juice, three
dozen loaves of bread, and oodles of jam, tomatoes, cheese and cucumbers. For Robbie and Al, the highlight of the excursion was after class, on the way back to Neiafu. The boys relaxed on deck singing and harmonising as Finesse II made her way in to the dock.
Finesse II found it very easy to spend a whole season crushing in Tonga, enjoying lovely beaches, good shelling, colourful snorkelling and the proximity of anchorages. It’s no wonder the number of boats cruising in Tonga has increased dramatically in recent years. □
Fresh: Neiafu's colourful market
Sally Andrew