Where The Golf Course

And Air Strip Are One

By Nan Daly

If Rarotonga provides amenities to equal its friendliness when the proposed jet strip is completed, it should take its place in the Pacific as a popular holiday resort.

As we approached, in the Northern Star, it certainly could claim to be one of the most beautiful islands, and from the moment we made a rather precarious transfer to a bobbing lighter, we were met everywhere with welcoming smiles.

We were well aware that Rarotonga is not yet prepared for visitors in large numbers and hoped to enjoy an island just being itself. We were not disappointed.

Our accommodation was the very first motel on the island and the facilities were excellent. We had the best of two worlds —privacy and re laxation when we wished—and in teresting company and warm hospitality at the Hotel Rarotonga, which is still primarily for govern ment employees and visiting officials.

Cheap liquor

Buying provisions was a pleasant experience. A large variety of goods was available and the stores were very versatile. Prices were largely the same as in New Zealand, although many items including dress materials, wearing apparel, cigarettes and liquor were cheaper.

Frozen meat from New Zealand was the most expensive foodstuff, but its quality was equally high.

There was an abundance of tropical fruit, and our bread was delivered daily. A waterfront cafe provided an alternative for “eating out”, and a rental car was readily available.

A friendly visit from well-known business personality, Willie Watson, set the tenor of our holiday, and we were welcome at the golf club. The unusual links situated on the air strip with a coral runway in the centre, presented a challenge in judging dis tances, but it was impossible to take scores seriously when surrounded by the beauty of palms and sharply etched peaks.

As the only plane using the strio was an RNZAF Hercules every 10 days there was little restriction on

play, although Sunday golf was pro hibited.

Most important event was the ar rival of Sir Gawain Bell of the South Pacific Commission and Mr. G.

Gauld, a UNO official, who were ac corded an official welcome with flags a-flying and traditional dances, fol lowed by an official reception where, with formalities concluded, the visi tors joined the dancers.

There were many interesting people to meet, including New Zealanders, who as administrative personnel, im pressed with their obvious dedication.

There was always activity on the waterfront, with Avarua the base for the lighters which ferry passengers to and from liners, and load large cargo vessels at anchor. An official visit of the HMNZS Lachlan kept them busy for several days.

A wrecked Yankee was a sad sight, completely rusted, dismasted and irrevocably aground. Below decks was a jumbled mass with only one table on gimbals still horizontal, giving a feeling of unreality.

At nearby Avatiu, the small inter island traders, Tagua and Bodmer, loaded and departed in typical island fashion with last minute arrivals, and

milling friends farewelling deck pas sengers, surrounded by their belong ings.

Here too were the cruising yachts —Nomad with Bruce Baker, Gitana with Anita and Bill and wee Louie Lambie, and English doctor Sheila and Bob Fleming in She. After two unsuccessful attempts to reach New Zealand, due to bad weather and sail trouble, Bruce was planning to fly there and return with new sails.

The Lambies were bound for Honolulu and the Flemings for New Zealand, possibly via Fiji. We spent many lively hours with them, and were saddened by their news that the Vaima cafe in Papeete had been destroyed by fire along with the sur rounding block.

Traffic limited to 25 mph and 35 mph on the open road was a relaxa tion. Possibly we should thank our friends, Jack Semple, son of the late Sir Robert Semple who, when our local traffic VIP, spent some time in

Rarotonga in the Cook Islands as seen from the air; at the bottom left of the picture can be seen the air strip.

Traffic at 25mph

Rarotonga last year advising on traffic matters. He has left a monu ment in the form of a roundabout in the main street of Avarua which we named “Semple’s Circle”. Jack is now in Suva in a similar capacity, and many friends are interested to hear news of him.

The 20-mile drive round the island, with its backdrop of palms, sea and reef, always provided diversion. We spent pleasant hours with American artist Rick Welland, who settled in Rarotonga seven years ago.

His home and studio are of an eye catching A-frame construction. As well as painting, he teaches at Tereora College, and showed us an intricate hand-crafted puppet in the form of a Tohunga, with which he intends to interest children in their early culture.

In the nearby village of Titikaveka an English family are putting down roots. Mary and Ken Gentle and young son Mark, have chosen Raro tonga as the place they wish to live and have left England to start a new life.

They read every book published about the Pacific and from the minute they set foot ashore, they just merged, as if island born. When we return we are sure to find them successfully established.

As we enjoyed a final view from the Mariposa we knew we must return to repeat our happy holiday and to satisfy our curiosity about the out-

A handsome ketch, "La Belle Sole", ties up in the placid waters of Avatiu wharf.

come of the main topic of conversa tion on the island—land and tourists.

Every stranger was automatically thought to be a hopeful land-lessee, lured by the pot of gold at the foot of the jet strip rainbow. Some of them were, but with the Rarotongan system of land tenure, where possibly 40 people can own one piece of land, most returned empty-handed.

We heard many different opinions of the coming influx of tourists, rang ing from eager anticipation, to doubts of their benefit, to strong opposition.

For our part we are glad to have visited Rarotonga now and hope that, whatever the future brings, the happi ness and friendliness of the islanders will not change.

The rugged mountains above Avarua, Rarotonga, make a picturesque backdrop to HMNZS "Lachlan", which anchored off the harbour recently.