The news magazine of the South Pacific · since 1930

Pacific Islands Monthly, 1 August 1949Vol. XX, No. 1

Madang As It Is

p. 10 · Read in the full issue

To-Day

From a New Guinea Correspondent MADANG seems lacking in civic pride.

The only apparent attempt to brighten the place up is that of the Commonwealth Bank, which has laid out floral gardens outside its office.

Even then, the immediate vicinity is marred by scrap war-time rubbish lying about in confusion.

As one leaves the ship’s gangway one treads precariously over a dilapidated wharf, for fear of spraining one’s ankle or breaking one’s neck. Right opposite are the unsightly, black-iron Quonset copra sheds: and, as one makes one’s way in puddles to the centre of activities, one is confronted with huge stacks of 44gallon drums—some day, the township will blow up.

Alas! Here is the steel skeleton of the war-time Port Maintenance Section —a shock to the aesthetic!

But, what is this ahead? It is the ghastly quarters of the staff of Messrs.

Burns, Philp (New Guinea). Ltd., perched high on the pyramidal concrete blocks of the German regime.

Konedobu, and its paper shacks, is palatial compared to this depressing slum-like zone. Here, there, and every where, are small, battered, unsightly native hovels. The rotten hessian sur rounding the lone tennis-court stands out in bold relief against the magnificent verdantly-green sports-oval, surrounded by its majestic, stately shade-trees.

The arboreal splendour of Madang’s main avenues bears testimony to the old Germans’ civic pride, industry and fore sight. Very few of these monarchs were damaged during the war, and to wander along these beautiful thoroughfares is de lightful when the moon is full and the Chinese shanty-town, and the natives’ hovels, and the 44-gallon drums, and the uncut kunai, are out of sight.

A steel bridge now crosses the Meiro. and the 16-miles or so of coranus road to Sek (headquarters of the Catholic Mis sion) may be travelled with ease.

It is distressing to see the huge swim ming pool, so ably constructed by the armed forces, in disrepair and unused, owing to marine growth of a dangerous nature. Cannot something be done?

Beer? Yes, there’s plenty—at £2 per dozen 20 oz. bottles —a Chinese brew —but “New Guinea would drink anything through an oily rag.”

Prices are extortionate, but you must pay or starve —there’s no redress and no price control. Here are some samples:—

You have to be in the upper strata to afford bread.

The best tribute I can pay Madang is that it is the prettiest spot on the coast— but it needs a fortnight and 100 “boys” to clean it up, and dump the war-time rub bish in the sea, and centralise those dangerous oil drums.

And I do say that the Madang native wharf-labourers are the most cheerful and efficient toilers in New Guinea. I’d back them against Port Moresby, Rabaul or Lae, any time.

Peaceful, magnificent Madang—with your harbour, coastal beauty, enchanting islets, your emerald greenness and shady avenues: you deserve a better fate!

Per lb. s. d.

Sugar 8?

Rice 85 Butter 4 6 Eggs, per doz 6 4 Bacon 3 9 Tin of Beef 2 5 Tea 7 3 Mutton 2 4 Sausages 2 6