Tourist — Here's Your Guide To Norfolk Is

Norfolk Is.

By Vernon Wheatley

NORFOLK ISLAND has been variously described as “the Madeira of the Pacific,” “a sub-tropic Paradise” and so on. In fact, every tourist agency will produce, upon demand, a different des criptive title.

A certain tourist bureau in Auckland, NZ, perhaps wins the coconut. These enthusiastic purveyors of tickets to ob livion infer that Norfolk is bounded by

beaches—“you jump out of your bedroom window and you are practically in the surf,” was a fanciful statement made to one tourist—and that, as you walk along the beaches, you can pick pineapples off TREES! Botanically incorrect.

In spite of all this, however, Norfolk can give one a delightful holiday. The future of Norfolk, in the main, appears to be bound up in its potential tourist traffic, but, just now, the amenities are lacking. Holidaymakers should realise that the best time of the year to visit here is during the winter. During the summer, the guest houses are hopelessly overcrowded, while in the winter there is plenty of accommodation available. Dur ing summer we miss the oranges and lemons and other fruits, but in the winter, fruit, with the exception of peaches, is abundant.

TOURIST transport to Norfolk Island will have to be accelerated if the Island is to benefit by tourist trade.

At present, we have the “Morinda” from Australia calling approximately once every three months, with, perhaps, an odd trip once a year by the “Muliama,” also from Australia.

These ships, during the year, probably bring only about twenty tourists. The rest of the passengers are going through to the New Hebrides or are local resi dents returning to or arriving from Aus tralia.

The Qantas Lancastrian, arriving every second Thursday from Australia, averages about eight passengers; while each NAG plane from NZ averages about fourteen passengers. The NAG runs one plane from New Zealand one Sunday, with two planes on each alternate Sunday.

Any increased tourist traffic from NZ has not been noted since September, 1948, when the exchange became so favouarble, simply because no extra planes have been placed on the circuit. And no extra planes are running because, during the summer, the guesthouses were fully booked. So it is just a vicious circle. However, the coming winter may see the summer feast spread over to counteract the winter famine.

Whilst we are on the subject of the tourist trade, let us dwell upon the faci lities for the incoming tourist. If he comes by boat, the tourist may (depend ing on the weather) have to shoot the breakers in a whaleboat, in rather hectic fashion, and, upon reaching the pier, leap frantically like a mountain goat to gain a solid foothold. His cases are handed to him with gallons of sea-water pouring from them. It is a rugged trip, but safe, because the boatmen have had years of experience in all weathers.

By air, the arrival is depressing. The tourists are herded into a dingy hut with a dirt floor. However, we understand that the dirt floor will shortly be receiving the earnest attention of the authorities.

Once through the regulations, the poverty-stricken building, plus its other depressing features, is soon; forgotten.

After all, it is only a minor item and one is never too critical whilst on holiday.

Strangely enough, Kingston, which is often quoted as the “village” of Norfolk Island, is more or less a cul-de-sac—you cannot purchase even a match or a cup of tea there. The main features of King ston are Emily Bay, a beautiful half moon of yellow coral sand where all-year bathing may be enjoyed; the cemetery which yields interesting and poignant

facts and makes one realise that Hitler did not invent the concentration camp; the old prison ruins; and, finally, the Government offices (or the red tape fac tory).

This building produces most of the Ad ministration’s revenue by the sale of stamps. But most important of all, at Kingston, is Ye Olde Administrative Grogge Shoppe, which also does its bit in replenishing the Government coffers.

THERE are many places of interest to visit—Anson Bay and the Cable Station, Cascades, Mount Bates, Ball Bay where the whaling station is located, the Headstones, St. Barnabas Chapel, and so on. Fish are plentiful and if you are fortunate enough to be invited out in a launch —well, you are in a fisherman’s paradise.

Both the Administrator and the Official Secretary, to'give them credit, are avail able for interviews to anybody. This is a big thing, for in many Government de partments, the seeker after information is passed from one jack-in-office to an other without any real satisfaction being gained. This cannot be said of the Ad ministration here, whatever else might be said.

Much comment has been made about the roads here. In summer, they dissolve into clouds of dust and in winter they are a treacly smother of mud. There is a move to have them tar-sealed and already an experimental stretch has been laid down. Credit for this must be divided between the Administration and the Com monwealth Department of Works and Housing which is over here to remove some of the primitiveness from the aero drome and allied projects, and also to supply housing for the Civil Aviation em ployees.

Some people imagine that, because of all these improvements, the Administra tion will do something about an all weather anchorage, but I fear that this will not be seriously considered on the grounds that it will cost too much. Which is faintly ridiculous, because harbourage charges and time saved in unloading ships would pay for the installation in a very few years. It would also help the Island as a tourist resort.

THE internal political battles of the Island are between the Island Coun cil, in one comer of the ring, and, in the other, the Administration. Most of the battles, though stormy, are mainly indecisive.

This, then, is a true picture of the Island, omitting the gloss and lard so lavishly spread by organisations whose sole aim in life is to sell you a ticket. You can have a good time here although there are no super cabarets. There is an ex cellent picture theatre, but there is no casino de-luxe. Your holiday will be what YOU make it, but, without' trying very hard, you can make it very enjoyable.

Mr. H. E. Maude, member for Social Development on the Research Council of the South Pacific Commission, arrived in Sydney early in June to make that city his headquarters for six months, while carrying out various research. Mr. Maude originally was appointed Deputy Secre tary-General, but was later asked to take the more responsible position. He was joined in Sydney by Mrs. Maude, who came from Auckland, and they had the good fortune to secure a very suitable residential flat in the overcrowded city almost immediately after they arrived.

In carrying out the Social Development projects approved by the Commission, Mr.

Maude will go to various Territories to confer with educators and scientists. In August he expects to be in Fiji for two weeks and, in November and December, in Wellington, NZ, for consultations.