Tonga, 50 Years Ago

By F. T. Goedicke

rE capital of Nukualofa, looked dead as I passed between the apparently unused Customs and Wharf sheds, and on into the grassy road, on my first visit, 50 years ago. For verily, the paths of Nukualofa at that time were paths of pleasantness, wide grassy avenues, kept trim by each Tongan landowner.

Up and down this verdant esplanade drove an immaculate young Tongan, in the smartest of clothes. He was evidently a person of importance, got up to show what Tonga could do in the way of fashion. I found out, later on, the reason for this.

I was astonished to see how few people there were about; but I learned they were attending an important function Dip loma Day, at the Nukualofa College.

Strolling past the building, I was hailed by an official, and invited into the hall, crowded with students and notabilities.

The teacher, a New Zealander, greeted me with enthusiasm, and a kind native insisted on ushering me to the platform, where sat my old friend of happy Haapai days, father of King George Tupou 11, who greeted me most kindly The mental arithmetic of the children was wonderful, and the answers came, quick and prompt, to quite difficult ques tions.

Next day my boat passed two volcanoes, “Tofoa Kao,” but it was a tempestuous day, and the tops were shrouded in clouds.

Next day, in rain, I entered Vavau to whose wooded shores, with exquisite vistas of foliage and harbour, and kindly, hand some people, I lost my heart. This country is volcanic. Only the night before, an earthquake took place and the natives rushed about thumping the ground with

sticks, to awaken the giant, who is turning in his sleep below. The missionaries could not get the idea out of their heads.

There was a most interesting native concert in the Free Church. The singing unaccompanied and unconducted, was marvellous; and when they gave, as an extra, “Hard Times Come Again No More,” in Tongan, the effect, weird and melan choly, swelling like an organ, and dying away like a sigh, was magnificent.

It was with sadness that I left Vavau again Tor my old home in Haapai, where I can recollect happy days spent among these kind natives of the Friendly Islands.

Following the Pacific Conference at Canberra, French Inspector General of Colonies Lasalle-Sere has visited Tahiti to study the general situation of French Oceania and the functioning of the administrative services.

The sugar ration card system has been dropped in Tahiti following an exchange agreement with Guadeloupe, which will accept copra in exchange for its sugar.

The French authorities are giving some attention to the growth of the Chinese element in the Tahitian population.

Governor Haumant recently threatened to close four Chinese schools for a limited period on the grounds that the teaching of French was inadequate and that only a small number of pupils were sitting for French examinations. The Chinese Consul intervened, and an agree ment was arrived at allowing the schools to reopen on condition that they im prove the teaching of French in con formity with the programme of the Education Dept.