First Impressions Of War-Torn Papua

By W. Herbert-Hughes

AN appropriate heading for this would be “An exile returns and wishes he had not.” For that is one’s reaction after roaming on a coastal trip from Moresby to Samarai.

Though “Port” is a scene of activity, to me it is a ghost town. The once comfortables homes are now brooding shells of houses. What was once a big wellstocked store is now an empty shell. Even shelves and partitions have gone from private homes. Decay is very apparent in exposed woodwork. Fibrolite is very noticeable because of the pieces out of it.

Though ordinary food seemed plentiful, everything is on a rationed scale. Most severely rationed is beer. The water is undrinkable, being heavily chlorinated.

That good old standby, a cup of tea, was completely spoiled by it. i ransport is a headache for those responsible for the running of small ships, and for intending passengers. I waited

five weeks for a vessel.

Voyaging along the coast is a depress ing journey, and “cleaning up” is making a lot of extra work on plantations and missions. At one place a herd of good cattle have “gone bush.” and a beast for killing has to be stalked in big-game style..

Arriving at Samarai, one is confronted with that mournful scene, the burnt-out frontage, where once stood the business premises and many comfortable homes, Gone, too, is the wharf that gave many a skipper anxious moments as he tried to come alongside against wind and tide, TtM’UCH good work has already been ItX done on Samarai for most of the island must have returned to jungle in 31 years. At one point, where clearing is still being done, I looked at scrub ten feet high; some of it was sap lings up to six inches in diameter.

The houses wear a mournful look, and all show signs of decay. Water tanks are in bad shape.

In one friend’s house, I can see his pictures on the wall; but the home of which his young wife was so proud is now used by natives.

There are no white women here, and I seem to be the only “civvy,” the rest of the men being in khaki.

MUCH work will have to be done and much money spent before both towns can be restored to their old pre-war standard. It will be a job for the younger generation, for it promises to be a heart-breaking task for those pioneers who, like myself, are no longer young.

Over all our hopes for our future in the Territory hangs that dark cloud, the “New Deal for Papua,” which can easily mean for us shattered dreams and a precarious old-age. We have deserved a better deal than Canberra apparently proposes to hand us.

Anyone returning at present should be prepared to live rough for some time, as no furniture is available. Gone are the days when we could put an order in and the goods would be back next boat. Some people here have had goods on order since last January, and are still waiting for them.