A Wander In The Trobriands

Interesting notes made by GWENDOLYN HIDES, during a visit to a little-known part of Eastern Papua.

IT was from Samarai, that verdantly rich and colourful little isle (situated in China Strait, off the eastern extremity of the mainland of Papua), that I set out, with two companions, in a small Government yacht, for the Tro briand Islands, about 160 miles north east of Samarai. It was a journey which took us through a sea, at times, of dream like beauty, among islands of strange interest and enchantment.

The approach to Dawson Strait, or Dobu Passage, at 5 a.m. was like enter ing a realm of luxuriant greens, deep blues, while the fragrant morning air whispered of myths and legends—no mean compensation for the early rising.

The large islands Oj. Normanby and Fergusson rose on either side —Normanby ratner devoid of cultivation, but Fer gusson showing signs of many native villages, important trade centres for the natives of adjacent islands. Inland, on Fergusson, are geysers and hot springs, and mountains of 4,000 to 5,000 feet. Be tween these two islands is a small one, and it was between this and Normanby that our course lay.

Soon, Dobu Island loomed ahead —a strange, lengthwise structure, rising in the middle to some height—actually a small extinct volcano, the corrugated cone of which was unusually flat, just as though it had been sliced off. The sides, close to the base, were dotted with native houses, built on piles. The natives here are known as Dobuans, and they supply the lingua franca of the whole d’Entrecasteaux Archipelago, ex tending as far as the Trobriands. At one of the islands there is a Mission Station.

Before coming to the Amphlettes, we passed Sanaroa—a sprawling coral shape, harbouring great native wealth. In a shallow lagoon is the home of the spon dylus shell, which is sought by the natives from a wide area, and is valued by those inhabiting other parts of Papua, where it is known as Sapi Sapi. The shell, a large one, is found in the coral, and contains a layer of red colouring, varying in shades. It is worked into red discs, and, as well as being used for monetary exchange, is worn for cere monial occasions, in the form of arm bands and necklaces.

The Amphlettes are a group of islands of uncommon shapes, sizes and composi tion. Some, just a rock construction, rise directly out of the sea, and rarely show any tropical vegetation.

After the Amphlettes, the only varia tion in the tedium of the sea was, now and then, a few scattered sandbanks and coral formations.

AT long last, the outline of the Tro briands came into view. First, a faint silhouette on the horizon; then, apparently one elongated strip of land; and, ultimatelv separate shapes took form, and the large island of Boyowa became distinct, with smaller islands to north and north-west.

We anchored in the big lagoon to await the Government launch. The shallows, here, make navigation difficult. With the launch, I met the Trobriand natives, and saw many differences in physical characteristics, as compared with the Papuan. The majority were of slighter build, with better defined features, and hair kept extremely short, displaying a high forehead.

As me evening shadows fell, we went ashore, to be greeted by our host, a pearl-buyer.

I found that I was fortunate in being the guest of one who possessed wide knowledge of the Trobriands and their

people, for I was eaeer to learn about both. He made my visit one to be long remembered. Rambling through the villages, he proved to be an inexhaust ible fount of information, and an interest ing companion, with much data relating to the past history of these islands.

The Trobriands, for the most part, are monotonously flat—a coral structure, with little depth of soil. The only breaks in tne tangled mass of vegetation are the clearings for native villages and gardens; and in the latter are to be seen quantities of yam vines, supported by poles. The Trobriander puts into his garden much work, and derives there from much profitable result.

But Boyowa natives have additional occupations. In one inland village they

produce skilful carvings in hardwood— chiefly grotesque figures and animals, for which the island is renowned. The figures are often seen in the small tables and bowls, made by these natives. The natives of a more coastal village make the red shell discs from the spondylus shell, and, as well, dive in the lagoon for pearls, which are bought by the Euro pean buyers. Buying pearls in this manner from Trobriand natives is a deviation from the general practice in other parts of the world, where divers are employed by Europeans or Malays.

LATER. I witnessed the bartering in connection with these pearls—a unique spectacle.

The pearl-buyer took his place behind a table, with the various exchange com modities within reach, whilst the vendors arranged themselves in a group, seated cross-leg fashion on the floor, in front of him. In the ensuing proceedings there

were displayed all the fine art of the £ a ™ e « chess - , the nrst move, of course, had to come from the group on the floor. But they seemed to be in no haste. Their faces revealed nothing—they wore a definitely “poker expression.

Eventually, one made a decision, for he came forward, and produced a pocketedition perfume bottle, from which he emptied pearls, of all sizes, perfect and imperfect, which were examined, tested, and paid for accordingly.

Now that transactions had been opened,

business began in earnest, but at a pace which was a sore trial of patience. The range of bottles and containers was a revelation. Even a used cartridge served the purpose.

During a longer wait than usual, I decided to photograph this island mar ket scene; but, when 1 unclasped the camera, and sought a focus, the manners of the Trobriander were forgotten in the eager desire to gratify his curiosity, re garding the intriguing apparatus sus pended at the end of the strap, hanging around my neck, and I had difficulty in

Top: Miss Hides, with her host, in a village on Totoya Island.

Second: A Trobriand pearl-buyer, with his merchandise, ready to barter for pearls.

Third: Three Trobriand women. From left to right they are widow (long grass skirt, with a kind of shell necklace); a married woman (medium-length fibre skirt); and an unmarried girl (short fibre skirt).

Fourth: A girl, with face painted, ready for a love expedition (note circle painted around one eye).

extrieattng myself from the mass of pungent-smelling humanity, which closed in upon me.

There is a complicated system of trade, known as the Kula, earned on between the tribes on islands within a wide circle of this part of the Pacific, and embrac ing the Trobriands. It is deep-rooted in myth, and attended by ceremonial and magical rites; but, to be comprehended, it would be necessary for one to be in close contact with these natives for some time.

IN the villages through which I wandered, with my host, the dwell ings, with the exception of the yam houses, were built directly on the ground —not very inviting, as regards the in terior, but it was evident that the daily activities in the life of the native, including the preparation and eating of his food, took place in the street, which was formed by the arrangement of yam houses and huts.

These yam houses are raised from the ground, on piles, and are a construction of big round logs, placed crosswise, one on top of the other, and consisting of four sides. In this design, a space is left, through which the stored yams can be seen, and the layers counted. The yam house of a chief is, of course, an ornamental affair, with numerous carv ings. The platforms in front of the yam houses are popular meeting-places—for men only.

In one village I saw a young girl who was industriously combing into threads, the half of a banana leaf, with the aid of fish teeth. I learned that this, when dried, would be an under-skirt, over which would go the more elaborate fibre skirt, which is done in three colours, is shoht and full, and stands out around the body like a ruff. This is the attire of the Trobriand women, though widows appear to wear the long grass skirt.

This, with a large, flat, shell decoration around the necK, completes their widow’s dress. The fibre skirt is shorter for single girls than for married women.

Love expeditions form part of the life of the young girls, and, for these, there is a certain amount of facial painting, ana adornment with flowers and orna ments. The Trobriand marriage is an important event —the wife’s family con tributing in a substantial way.

The innumerable chiefs in the Tro briands possess great powers, and even a woman, if of this rank, and married to a commoner,' retains her status. An other noticeable feature here is the high position allowed women in tribal affairs, including the privilege of joining the councils of men.

To the north of Boyowa is the island of Tuma, whence are aneged to go the spirits of the dead Trobrianders, to re turn to their villages for' ceremonial feasts. Magic is held in such awe by these peoples that it is more feared than ghosts.

We left the Trobriands one evening at dusk —for my part, with the wishful thought that I again would have an opportunity of continuing my wander ings mere.

The waters through which we travelled that evening abounded in fish, and, for an hour, with three tow lines out, tne native crew and our personal “boys” were kept busy landing fine fellows of worth while proportions, including several king fish, and providing, for us, a tasty meal.

The natives were delighted with the sport, and the air resounded to their ex cited yells.

That night, while we lay at anchor off the little island of Yaga, they went ashore to cook their spoils, and soon the bright glow of their small fires pene trated the darkness. As we lounged on the deck, the little island suddenly came to life, with recurring shrieks. It was

revealed that the island was infested with water snakes, whose peace had been disturbed by the coming of the visitors and their tires, and the reptiles started trekking to the water from all direc tions; hence the tumult and the shout ing.

And so back to Samarai, across a now stormy sea, through Moresby Strait (be tween Goodenough and Fergusson is lands), with vistas of mountains and valleys, very different to the Trobriands.

Mr. Frank Hambridge, of 22 Bridge Street, Sydney, who is managing director of Cuthberts Misima Gold Mines Ltd., wants a copy of the “Pacific Islands Monthly” of October, 1936. This is an issue which has been entirely sold out.

If any of our readers has a copy of October, 1936, and will part with same, he is invited to kindly communicate with Mr. Hambridge.

The death occured in Port Moresby on March 30 of Mr. W. J. Kirby, at the age of 60 years, after much ill-health. Mr.

Kirby arrived in Papua over 25 years ago, and for many years was employed with the BNG Development Co. For the last 5 years he had been connected with Steamship Trading Co. Mr. Kirby leaves a widow, resident in Port Moresby.

Mr. John W. Rowse, of the Common wealth Bank staff, Rabaul, New Guinea, married Miss Alison Vautin, of Tennyson (NSW) at St. George’s Church, Rabaul, at the end of April. They spent their honey moon at Put Put Plantation.