The Griffiths Report—Why Lae Was Recommended

—Numerous Factors Considered

mHE tragedy of the Hughes-McNicoll X interference with the Griffiths report becomes evident as soon as the re port is perused.

With typical political cunning, Mr.

Hughes did not make the Griffiths report available to members of Parliament un til a few hours before he rushed through his enabling legislation, and no one had a chance to study it. If it had been printed and circulated, it is unlikely that the Hughes-McNicoll plan, to plant the administrative establishment in the swamps of Salamaua, would have been approved.

The “P.1.M.” did not see a copy of the report until late in July. It is impos sible to reproduce, in full, the lengthy and comprehensive document; but the following extracts will be of interest to all residents of New Guinea and Papua, and they will show how thoroughly the members of the Committee (Brig.-Gen eral T, Griffiths, Mr. W. C. Thomas and Mr. L. Thornton, 8.C.E., M.T.C.P.1.) did their work.

First, the nature of the instructions given to the Committee should be noted.

They are informed by Canberra that the report of the vulcanologists make it ne cessary that a new site for the adminis trative establishment be found; and the conditions for which they are to seek are clearly set forth. For instance: — “The Committee is required fully to inquire . . . having regard to suitability from the point of view of administration and the relations of the Administration with the Commercial, Agricultural, Min ing and other activities of the Territory.

It is desired that the Committee ap proach the matter not only from the point of the most suitable and conveni ent location for the present circumstan ces of the Territory, but also having in mind the probable expansion and devel opment of the Territory”.

Danger Of Tidal Waves

The Committee gave particular care to the following, from the vulcanologists’ re port:—

“Along all coast lines in the area, and especially the north coasts of New Guinea and New Britain, the possibility of dis astrous tidal waves, though not alarm ingly acute, must always be reckoned with. As far as possible, the business and residential areas of coastal towns should be kept back from the shore and should be not less than 100 feet above sea-level. It is recognised that this may involve a small recurrent charge for transportation of goods from ship to shore, but this should be regarded in the light of insurance against tidal wave risks. This consideration would appear to have considerable weight in reference to Salamaua”.

Mainland Favoured

The Committee carefully examined all the circumstances of suggested sites on other islands —especially Kavieng—but concluded that the new site must be on the mainland: — “The present stage of gold production on the mainland, the possibility of the extension of the now known life of the fields, the great agricultural and pas toral potentialities of the extensive val leys of the Markham and Ramu Rivers, and the immense timber resources, point unmistakably to the fact that the main land will provide the greatest future development of this Territory”.

The Committee then proceeded to con sider the various mainland sites, as fol lows: — “WAU: Situated at an altitude of about 3,500 feet, Wau has a pleasant, temperate climate. It is inaccessible ex cept by air, but that inaccessibility will disappear with the construction of a road to the coast. The great disadvantage of Wau from the point of view of a capital

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site is that it is predominantly a mining centre. The whole of the Wau and Bu lolo Valleys is held by companies and in dividuals under mining leases and claims, and there are not any large ag ricultural areas available to maintain a town when the mining wanes, as it must inevitably do. The representations of the Wau people, that it should be the capital were prompted in most cases, we found, by their desire for a road to Sala maua or Lae. They reason that such a road must be built at once if the Admin istrative centre is placed at Wau. ft ap pears to us, however, that the economic needs of the highly productive district require the construction of a road at no distant date, and that it does not need the location of the Central Administra tion at Wau to ensure this facility. The cost of early transfer to Wau would be particularly heavy, and the cost of ad ministering the Territory from that cen tre would be higher than in any other place except the Ramu district, in view of the necessity to use air transport pending the construction of a road to the coast. The surrounding area is an endemic focus for tropical ( endemic) typhus, many cases of which have oc curred (with deaths). The particular mite vector has not yet been discovered.

Although Wau township is fairly clear of malaria, the whole of the valleys of the Bulolo and Watut rivers are malarious.

The district is practically free from seis mic disturbance but the site does not otherwise possess those attributes which we think ought to be associated with the new capital.

“Ramu River Headwaters;

There is an extensive plateau on the upper Ramu River, reaching an altitude of about 5.000 feet, and the climate is reported to be mild. Such inquiries as we have been able to make indicate an excessive amount of low cloud formation mav have an adverse effect on health. There is not sufficient informa tion available to enable us to determine the health conditions of this area. The soil is evidently very fertile and the prospects of large agricultural and pas toral development seems to be distinctly promising. The existence of a large na tive population, however, would very likely preclude extensive white settle ment for which there is greater scope in the lower valleys. The position is remote and would necessitate a road either to Madang or Lae. This . road

would probably be about 150 miles in length if taken to Madang, and over 100 miles in length if taken to Lae; it would take time to construct, so that early transfer could not be commenced unless costly aeroplane transport were used.

The remoteness of this area, the lacK of definite knowledge of health conditions, and the length of time required for its development to a stage at which trans fer could be started render it unsuitable for present needs, and, as we are re quired to consider present as well as future requirements, we do not feel we can recommend this site. Development will undoubtedly occur here as time goes on. but present conditions are not fav ourable to its choice as a capital site.

Moreover, there is not sufficient reliable data available as to general and seismic conditions, though it should be practic ally free from volcanic disturbance.

“Markham River Headwaters;

Our remarks on the Ramu River head waters also apply generally to this area, except that there is not a large native population here, and white settlement could be more extensive.

“MADANG has extremely good har bour facilities and it could be developed into a first-class port. The area avail able for township extension is limited however, and the placing of the Central Administration here would necessitate costly resumption of private property.

Such resumption would be quite justified if Madang became the headquarters of the Administration, but the fact that Madang is so close to the line of vol canic weakness referred to in the Vul canological Report is, we think, a very great disadvantage. N. de M. Maclay. who visited this coast in 1871, 1876, and 1883. reported strong seismic activity in this area. Further, the site is on the coast, at sea-level, and is likely to suffer severely from a tidal wave of more than small dimensions.

“It has been represented to us that the suggestion in the Appendix to the Vulcanological Report that coastal towns should be at least 100 feet above sea level to avoid the effect of disastrous tidal waves is a counsel of perfection, and that it should not be a factor of vital importance in the choice of a site to replace Rabaul as the centre of gov ernment. It has to be remembered, how

ever, that tidal waves havq occurred on the New Guinea coast. In December, 1930, a tidal wave about 15 feet high was experienced at Gragat Island, in front of Madang Harbour. This wave was about 10 feet high at Modilon plan tation, which adjoins, and it caused a good deal of damage north of Madang.

The natives in this area stated that a similar occurrence was experienced about 40 years previously. We feel we cannot ignore the possibility of trouble of this nature overwhelming a coastal town not protected against it by adequate eleva tion.

“There is no suitable elevated terrain reasonably close to Madang, and to place the Administrative Headquarters on flat country far enough from the coast to break the effect of a large tidal wave and yet close enough for quick access to the port would necessitate wholesale dispossession of natives, with which the district is thickly populated. There is no need for the Committee to stress the undesirability of such a course, which would mean endless trouble with the na tives and be contrary to public opinion.

In and around Madang there is less variation in temperature and humidity (both day and night) thah in any other coastal town in the Territory, and hot nights are the rule, rather than the ex ception.

“FINSCHHAVEN is not well placed as regards the future development of the Territory and is too close to the volcanic region at the western end of New Britain to be considered as a capital site, while more advantageous sites are available.

“ALEXISHAVEN (Sek): Much the same comments may be made on Alexis haven, where there is a good harbour but practically no land not occupied by natives or given over to mission activi ties. There are also extensive swamp areas in the vicinity.

“The mouth of the SEPIK RIVER is also too close to the volcanic zone, is flat country very little above sea-level, contiguous to immense swamps, and could not be occupied without considerable development. The cost of making any portion of the lower Sepik medically fit for the establishment of a port or capi tal would be colossal.

“MOROBE has a fair harbour (ADOLFHAVEN) but here also are large swamp areas. Health conditions, as known, are not good, the elevated coun try in the vicinity is, for the most part, too steep to permit of use as a capital site, and it is further from the centre of development than two other places, which have greater advantages, namely, Salamaua and Lae.

“SALAMAUA is a port of call for oversea vessels. The harbour is not good, but is capable of being developed into a reasonably effective port. The existing town is built mostly on a low lying isthmus, and the other land avail able is distinctly circumscribed, there being insufficient area available for the expansion which would follow the es tablishment of the Administration Head quarters at this place.

“In our remarks on Madang we have referred to the question of protection from possible tidal waves. Such protec tion seems to be essential at Salamaua which is said to be susceptible to such phenomena. Mr. Fisher’s memorandum mentions a tidal wave of 30 feet in 1888 that probably affected this area. In our opinion, it would be unwise to use any of the flat land for town purposes.

There is elevated land at Parsee Point and also at Kila Point, but we doubt that there are sufficient areas at these points for the needs of the seat of Ad

ministration as it now stands, let alone the future growth which must be anti cipated. In our view, the elevated parts of Salamaua will be required for purely local needs, connected with the develop ment of Salamaua as a port.

“The aerodrome area and, to a less ex tent, the Kila area, is still definitely and continually malarious, in spite of anti malarial measures. The type of malaria is a malignant sub-tertian, with a ten dency to development of Blackwater fever.

Selection Of Lae

“LAE is situated on the coast, in Huon Gulf, about 20 miles from Salamaua, but close to the shore there is elevated land about 100 feet above sea-level. Series of terraces extend for a considerable dis tance and these are capable of accom modating a large town. In addition, a number of small spurs would provide de sirable sites for residences. Lae enjoys great freedom from seismic disturbances, and is the only suitable coastal site where there is no risk of inundation by tidal wave. Unfortunately, there is no harbour and the shore waters are too deep to provide safe anchorage in bad weather. Notwithstanding this disadvan tage, the Committee regards Lae as a suitable place for the Administrative Headquarters of the Territory and re commends its selection”.

The data on which this recommenda tion is based are set forth at length later on in the report. They may be sum marised thus:— 1. —Comparative freedom from seismic disturbances and volcanic activity. 2. —Healthy climate and comparative freedom from disease. 3. —Proximity to a suitable port. 4. —Freedom from tidal wave influence. 5. —Suitability from the point of view of administration and the relations of the Administration with the Commercial.

Agricultural. Mining and other activities of the Territory. 6. —Absence of a large native popula tion which would have to be dispossess ed of the site land. 7. —Suitable tonography for a city site, having in view future expansion. 8. —Prospects of a good water supply. 9. —Freedom from expensive existing development, involving costly resump tions.

10.—Availability in the locality of a plentiful supply of materials of construc

tion and sources of powen 11. Provision for possible Civil Aviation requirements 12. General suitability of site. 13. Possibility of early transfer of personnel from Rabaul.

The report proceeds:—

Salamaua As A Port

“We suggest that the port for the Administrative Headquarters be Salamaua.

By means of a road between the two places, people arriving by sea and desiring personal contact with the Administration could reach the administrative centre in a short time.

“If, however, Salamaua is to give proper service as a port, it will have to be developed. The choice of Lae as the administrative centre will, we believe. make Salamaua, in time, the chief port °* t] ? e . Territory We agree with the Administrator when he says that the chief administrative port is the front dpor of the Territory; that many overseas vessels will call but for a day at a time and will visit no other port; that many overseas passengers, visitors and tourists will see no more of the Territory than that port; and that its wharves. works, buildings, and general layout and appearance should be a source of pride to the Territory and to the Commonwealth Government.

“We think the first stages of development. such as the provision of wharves. should proceed hand-in-hand with the transfer of the administrative centre for Rabaul to Lae. Until wharves are built at Salamaua and a road constructed from the port to Lae, there is little doubt that overseas vessels would call at Lae to disembark passengers and discharge cargo for the administrative centre.

“In regard to the suggested road, we would say that Salamaua seems to be the only port possible in the district. and the Markham River Valley will have to be served by this port, as the Goldfields are now. A road from Salamaua, through the Markham River Val-

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Lae’S Geographical Importance

“The commercial centres at Madang and Salamaua are within easy reach of Lae.

The commercial interests at Rabaul will be at a considerable disadvantage compared with their present position, but we believe that the principal companies, with territory-wide interests, will make their own arrangements to fit the new circumstances. The agricultural centres of Rabaul, Kavieng and Kieta will be farther awav, but the agricultural and pastoral centres of the Markham and Ramu Rivers are within easy access of Lae i<? n „4. lpf fnr of the bv the Mark!

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inland Mount and the Dutch border, and embraced by the Upper Tauri, Vailala and Purari Rivers, which reach the Gulf of Papua, and the Ramu River, which flows through the Madang District. These areas offer exceptional possibilities for agricultural development.

The altitude of the fertile and wellwatered valleys provides a wide range of climate variation up to 5,000 feet, and also altitudes with the mountain systems reaching to a height of 15,000 feet.

“The large native population, estimated as at least 150,000 in the Upner Ramu and Purari Valleys, and 80,000 ih the country adjoining the Markham Valiev provides a potential labour supply for develon mental work » A rpnort nrpnarpd in iqos hv rvr r

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dicate the Potentialities of the Markham River Valley. (This report appears as Appendix D.) ‘ <The min ing districts will be brought closer to the Central Administration, and the areas of probable oil discovery are capable of quick control from Lae.

“Should it be decided, at some future date, to place the Territories of Papua and New Guinea under one Administration, Lae would be a suitable centre from which to administer the combined Territories.”

Salamaua Versus L^E

™ Tl J e Committ ee make the following com

ment' 1

“The Administrator personally favours Salamaua as port and capital, or Sala maua as the port, and the capital at an inland site in one of the high river valleys, He thinks, however, that the expense in volved in an inland capital seems to be un necessary and unwise, having in mind additional cost of developing a port to serve the capital. This objection holds Cloned L ana nort, b vel °ped apart from the port at Sala

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“ We have already given our reasons not selecting an inland site, and it * s our opinion that no saving of expen diture on necessary works over the cost °t the Lae selection would result from combing the capital with the port at Salamaua.

“The capital would necessarily have to

be placed at the rear of the low hills sur rounding Salamaua, if it were to be de signed so as to have the essential dignity and charm which should be inseparable from a seat of Government. If so sited, there would, owing to unsuitable topo graphy, be an excessive amount of ex penditure, for the expenditure ultim ately necesary for the port would be equally unavoidable.

“It is not considered that the cost of developing a town at Lae, plus a port at Salamaua, would be any greater than that of developing both capital and port at Salamaua. This does not take into account the cost of connecting a road between Lae and Salamaua, which will be necessary, in any case, to provide the connection to the port of the Markham Valley and adjacent areas.

“Salamaua has one big advantage over Lae in that it has a harbour which can be developed without great cost; while Lae, as we have pointed out, is an open roadstead. After most careful examin ation of the position, we give It our con sidered opinion that the port is Sala maua’s only advantage over Lae, and that other advantages which Lae has over Salamaua make it a better site for the new Administrative centre.”

The Morobe Road Problem

The Committee deals at length with the road problem, as affecting Wau, Sala maua, Lae, and the Markham-Ramu con nection: — “There is no doubt that a develop • mental road must sooner or later tra verse the Markham River Valley. Lae is the natural outlet of this valley but, ow ing to the unsuitability of Lae as a port, the road must be diverted to Salamaua.

“A road is also required to the gold fields.

“There are, to date, three propositions for a road from the coast to the goldfields.

The first (a), is the direct road from Salamaua to Wau —Bergin’s Survey or its variation via the Bitoi River throughout.

The second route (b) is via the coast from Salamaua to the Buang River, thence via that river to the Snake River, to link with the existing road from Wau to Sunshine (near Bulwa). The third route (c) is from Lae, via the Mark ham and Wampit Valleys, to link with the existing road at Sunshine.

“Assuming that the Administration in tends to use the first route (a) it is questionable whether it is wise to build that road before any others, having in mind considerations connected with the location of the Administrative Head quarters at Lae.

“The developmental road, to serve the Markham and Upper Ramu Valleys, was commenced some years ago, and about 20 miles have been cleared and formed.

Whether the road follows the best location is a matter for consideration in the light of the newest development, and will be referred to later. It is vital for develop ment that this road be put into suitable order for traffic at the earliest possible moment, and it will be essential to carry the road on to Salamaua as the only pos sible port. There is also the necessity for the early linking up of the proposed capi tal, Lae, with its port, Salamaua. Both of these considerations require the bridging of the Markham River as near its mouth as possible. Route <c) to the goldfields also requires the bridging of the Markham River, but not necessarily near its mouth.

“Some day, the potential agricultural land on the south side of the Markham River and its tributary valleys will also have to be connected with its outlet, Salamaua, “If a road system could be planned so

as to achieve all these objects, with the miniiVmolwork, the scheme obviously

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wha«v£or not alternative routes may come later 11C!

“The whole matter hinge on the site for the over the Markham River. We gave Partimar attention to this matter and located what we regard as the most favourable site from %

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confirmed by inspection on me grouna.

“If the bridge were sited, as suggested, it would fulfil all the requirements enumerated above. Firstly, it would give the

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ivTarkham Valiev road to be diverted to MSSSS Itthe most favourable point,

namely nearest to Its outlet end. Thirdly, the Lae-Bulolo roaa (route c) could be n z bridge head to Gabansfc landing^und. stream of the Wampit River to Wampit landing ground, linking up there with the old rou t e , (c) to Bulolo. This proposal would automatically provide the shortest connection to Salamaua of the agrl cuitural land on the south side of the

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Dredging , Limited and, at the time, a S it e between the junctions of the Erap Wampit Rivers with the Markham Ri ve r was favoured. . . .

"At this site the distance between per manent banks Is slightly over a mile, of which only 1450 feet were to be bridged.

The remainder consists of mud and gravel flats containing numerous water courses which the river occupies in flood time. There is no guarantee that the river will remain in its present channel and the bridge would then be rendered useless. Even assuming that the river does not move, there would doubtless be endless washouts and blockages to traffic with every flood.

“At the site we suggest, however, there are permanent banks at about 1,800 to 1,900 feet apart. This means a slightly longer bridge, but no likelihood of any troubles on the approach road.

“On the question of the present loca tion of the Markham road ... it will be necessary to construct a short new road connecting the bridge head with the exist ing Markhan road. It may, in our opinion be preferable to continue this road close along the northern end of the river to

serve the Markham Valley, rejoining the present road further west . .

Future Of Rabaul

“The Administration considers that a staff of approximately 54 will be needed to carry out the usual district services, and provision will have to be made for these people at some local area outside the influence of the Rabaul volcanoes.

We have not addressed ourselves to the question of finding a suitable place for this staff. The matter, we believe, can be dealt with as one of internal admini stration.

“The cost of establishing the Rabaul district services outside the volcanic area of this locality would be approximately £45,000. This estimate of cost is based on the staff residing out of Rabaul, but carrying on the district services from Rabaul itself. This arrangement may be satisfactory if regarded as a temporary

measure, having in view gradual trans fer to a site outside Rabaul. We think, that, as a permanent arrangement, it would not be in accordance with the Commonwealth Government’s wishes, and that it would be open to strong criticism in the event of another volcanic eruption at Rabaul.”