A Trading Trip Through

the Yasawos Little-known Outer Islands of Fiji

By “Tui Yasawa-I-Lau”

LEAVING Lautoka, Fiji, in the aux iliary ketch “Vonu”, a beam wind enabled us to make our first port of call in the Yasawas in just on seven hours. This port is Qeleni, situated on the island of Naviti, and is the trading headquarters of Captain Fred Giblin, a very popular skipper known throughout the Fiji group, having been in command of various interinsular vessels.

Some ten years ago, Captain Giblin gave up the sea, transferring his activities to trading, and took over the interests of Mr. Arthur Robinson in the Yasawa group. At this port, unbounded hospitality awaits one—hospitality that only one who has enjoyed it can fully appreciate.

Listening to the radio, and the Cap tain accompanying numerous old-time tunes on his one-string fiddle (which he made himself out of an old ukulele and a piece of boxwood, and on which he is adept), yarns and experiences which have befallen him in various parts of Fiji, keep one entertained until a late hour.

The day dawns with a fresh easterly breeze and, to the chug-chug of the engine, the creaking of blocks and the rattle of chain, we get under way against a dead headwind. The trolling lines are put out and, instead of the usual “bought” spoon being used, the white stem of the lily (via via) is tied around an ordinary hook.

We do not have to wait too long for results, for passing quite close to a reef between Naviti and Yageta, we get a strike and, on hauling in the line, we find a nice twenty-pounds walu, well and truly hooked.

Our first call is at the island of Tavewa, to deliver goods and empty sacks which will be filled with copra, ready for shipment by next trip of the “Vonu”. Here we meet the owner, Mr.

James Doughty, an interesting person ality, to whom the wonders of wireless, talkies and motor cars are totally un known. He has not left the island for the past twenty years. A half hour suffices for all business here and, once again, we get under way.

All the way up, one is struck by the beauty of these islands—the sandy beaches, palm-fringed shores, the rocky islets with perhaps a single coconut tree standing sentinel, the evergreen appear ance of that most useful of trees, the coconut, and the tortuous, yet beautiful coral patches, that strew the ocean bed all along the coast.

Our next port of call is Nacula and, as we wend our way through the pas sage to anchorage, our attention is arrested by the peculiar shape of a small islet on our port bow. This has the form of a crouching lion with a man's head.

Safely anchored, we go ashore and while cargo is being unloaded for the trading station here, we wander through the native town, seeing the natives in their natural environment, happy and contented. We see the natives performing their daily tasks, the menfolk bringing in the day’s need of native vegetables, yams and tapioca, or perhaps thatching a house; the womenfolk cooking over an open fire, or sitting under the shade of a flamboyant tree plaiting mats.

We came across the remains of a church, almost covered with undergrowth. This building is some 84 feet

long, 42 feet wide and 12 feet high; and the walls, which are made of a mixture of ceme nt and coral are 26 inches thick, The roo f was blown away years ago by a hurricane which swept the group, , . hours run brings us to the island Tamasua, where we spend the night, Going ashore here, we are made more than welcome by the European manager of the trading station, to whom visitors are almost as scarce as the mythical “snowball in Hades”. A lonely life in deed, yet not altogether shut out from the outside world for, per medium of a wireless set, he is at least able to keep

in touch with the daily doings of the outside world.

At daybreak next morning a start is made up coast, to load copra, and we pass within a couple of hundred yards of the island of Yasawa-i-lau, which is honeycombed with caves, one of which has water inside and where one can en joy a real good swim. On one wall of this cave are scripts discovered by Cap tain Giblin (and investigated by Mr.

A. J. Vogan), and which are believed to be of Chinese origin.

Along the treacherous coast we go, enjoying to the full the good stiff easterly breeze until we come to a beautiful land-locked bay, Enenbavu by name. Here there is no native town, but two or three huts wherein copra is stored.

Ashore, one is fascinated by the numerous small shells of every variety that are to be found strewn along the beach. An obliging native appears as if from nowhere, decides we would like a drink, and proceeds to climb a coconut tree, knocking down just sufficient for our need. Then, with a few deft cuts with his cane knife, he hands us each a nut 4 to partake of the cool and refresh ing contents.

Three hours and all the copra has been loaded and we are off again to take on more, this time at a town called Teci. Passing a small rocky islet on our starboard side as we go in to anchor, we disturb the peace of dozens of wild duck, which fly off to the safe sanctuary of some inland pool.

Suddenly there is a yell from the native holding the trolling line and, on pulling it in, we find we have hooked a bonnie Bonito, of a most vivid blue, and which tips the scale at 38 pounds.

Our impressions of Teci are best left undescribed. Suffice to say that its appearance suggests that each house in the town has to lean at an angle to enable it to stand up against the ele ments.

Having completed our loading, and this anchorage being too dangerous to spend the night there, we find we have enough time to get back as far as Tamasua and a safe anchorage, and so away we go.

On one of the trolling lines a boy has tied a piece of fish instead of the lily skin and, just off Yasawa-i-lau, we catch a shark—a baby one measuring two feet nine inches.

Daylight next morning finds us on our way back to Qeleni, calling in at Nacula to pick up mail and orders and catching on our way down a varied assortment of fish—saga, walu, ogo and donu. We drop anchor about 4 p.m. and spend another exceedingly pleasant evening with the genial Captain and his family.

The boat cannot leave until 10 a.m., so we pay a visit to Kese town, and"here are entertained by the Government representative, Ratu Filimone Kama and his two charming daughters, Adi Joana and Adi Lala.

After partaking of ceremonial kava and a pleasant hour’s chat, we make our way back to Qeleni, and board the “Vonu”, this time Lautoka-bound.