Prince Henry In Polynesia
pp. 42-43 · Read in the full issue
To Be Entertained By Ancient Ceremonies Of Fiji
THE Duke of Gloucester is scheduled to arrive in Fiji by H.M.A.S. Australia on February 1, and elaborate preparations have been made to give him a loyal and warm welcome by the three races— Europeans, Fijians, and Indians—who dwell in Britain’s remotest colony.
Neither expense nor trouble has been spared to enable the distinguished visitor to see the picturesque and historic cus toms and ceremonies, and to observe the native people in their natural setting, at work and play.
As the Duke steps ashore on Suva wharf he will be received by the Governor (Sir M. Fletcher, K.C.M.G., C.B.E.) and the Mayor of Suva (Hon. T. W. A. Bar ker). A guard of honour, comprised of Europeans and Indians in Khaki, and Fijian volunteers resplendent in white sulus and scarlet tunics, standing stiffly beside muscular Fijians from the Con stabulary in neat blue uniforms, will then be inspected. The guard, un der Drill Instructor Sergeant Major Verona, of the Scots Guards, has been diligently rehearsing for some weeks and the Prince, himself a keen sol dier, will be treated to a display of mili tary precision equal to the world’s best.
Following the parade, a Civic Reception will be held at the Town Hall, and later, in the afternoon, the Duke will be greeted by Fijian chiefs at Albert Park,, where he will witness the traditional rite of the presentation of whale’s teeth. After examining the teeth he will hand them to a chief, who will announce in Fijian that the Duke has accepted them.
Then will follow what is probably the best-known ceremony throughout the South Seas —that of Kava (or Yaqona) drinking. Made from the pulverised roots of a shrub (Piper Methysticum) to which fresh water has been added, Kava re
sembles a soapy liquid in appearance and has a most peculiar flavour.
When the fluid has been mixed and strained the native cup-bearer will ad vance in a dancing manner and present Prince Henry with half a coconut shell, Ailed with Kava. As he raises the bowl to drink the liquid—Fijian custom and etiquette has it that the ceremonial cup must be drained to the last drop—the assembled natives will chant, softly at first, then gradually louder until, as the Duke flings his cup in front of him with a spinning motion, the natives now chanting frenziedly will cry “Maca” (It is dry!).
The plaited coconut fibre which has been stretched in front of His Highness during the ceremony will then be coiled up, signifying that the ceremony is now completed. Then the Duke will hear speeches of welcome from the Indian community and the Fijians.
The following day the ancient capital of Bau, where lived the paramount chiefs, will be visited. In the old days King Thakombau, the great war-lord, was com mander of 3,000 warriors who inhabited Bau and, with his large fleet of canoes, he ruled over the Fiji archipelago. But the glory that was Bau’s has now de parted, and the town has fallen into decay.
His excursion to Bau will be a busy and memorable day for H.R.H. Early in the morning, as the sun is making the blue waters sparkle, the Royal visitor will sail from Bau in the canoe of Ratu Popi, Paramount Chief of Fiji and Native Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, to the fishing grounds, where he will see brawny Fijians wielding their two handed fish spears with the skill and judgment that have made them famous.
The fishing expedition over, the party
will return to Bau for lunch —a sumptu ous feast of yams, fish and oysters, cooked and served in Fijian style.
The afternoon will be devoted to a grand display of mekes, when dancers in white tapa cloth will perform the Ua ni loko loko. This famous dance is a real istic imitation of the long blue rollers crashing on a coral reef. The performers in small parties bend and twist them selves in weird contortions, flinging out their arms and intermingling with each other to resemble the waves dipping over a coral reef and sliding into the unruffled waters of a green lagoon. During the dance the chorus chants in deep, boom ing tones to the rhythmic beating of the ancient lalis.
Next will come a meke representing a tribal battle. Advancing from three dif ferent directions, parties of Fijians armed with spears, wooden clubs and prodigious fans will come together in mock battle, stamping upon the ground and wheeling in unison to the thumping beat of the drums, and the chant of stirring war-songs swelling in the back ground.
The Duke’s third day will be spent on Beqa (Mbenga), the island where live the mysterious fire-walkers. Their se cret has been preserved so closely that although there are some 100,000 natives in the Group, the inhabitants of little Beqa are the only tribe to practise this strange ceremony of walking on stones baked to a white heat. Accompanied by the Governor Prince Henry will sail there in the Government yacht Pioneer to witness the rite known as Vilavilairevo (the fire dance).
Many and interesting are the legends that have been handed down throughout the ages to account for the Beqa natives’ secret art. The story generally accepted by the Fijians is that a young chief named Galita, while searching for an eel, caught a human dwarf, who told him the secret. In response to the dwarf’s pleas Galita released him on condition that he should give him the power of being im mune to heat.
The dwarf constructed a lovo (open oven) in the ground and built a log fire.
When the stones became red-hot the
little man took Galita by the hand and they stepped on to the fiery stones. Ga lita enjoyed this experience so much, so the legend goes, that he lay down and baked himself for several days without harm. Finally the chief initiated other members of his tribe into the mystery, and ever since the secret power has been jealously guarded by the tribe.
The ceremony of fire-walking per formed in its natural setting is a spec tacle of weird attractiveness. In a clear ing in the middle of the Beqa tropical forest a pit about 4ft. deep and 15ft. wide is dug and then filled with large stones which are covered with logs. For many hours the fire burns until the stones be come white-hot. Then the remains of the logs are hauled away and the stones levelled.
Suddenly with loud screams the Beqa natives, dressed in ceremonial attire, rush from the forest and, gesticulating as they run, shout their tribal war-cry. Reach ing the side of the pit they follow their leader as he steps on the heated stones and slowly makes his way around the circle of the pit. Some remain standing on the stones for several minutes, while others squat down without any apparent uneasiness. As they leave the pit it is covered with branches, and a winding column of steam and smoke arises to be token the fact that the ceremony has ended.

