Life On Nanomaga

How the “Jeanette” Was Wrecked

By “Nonofoia”

THE trim little brigantine “Jeanette,” then belonging to the Samoa Shipping and Trading Co., Ltd., left Funafuti, El lice Islands, towards the end of Novem ber, 1925, on a trading trip to the other northern islands in the group.

After visiting the islands of Nukufetau, Vaitupu and Niutao, in good weather, and taking copra aboard, we made for Nan omaga, where, towards sundown, we an chored in about 9 fathoms of water on a shoal about two miles north of the island.

In the early morning, with a nice breeze, we made for the island, tacking to and fro about two miles from shore, as there is no anchorage. Soon we had lots of natives aboard, and were making arrange ments to take delivery of their copra. The brigantine was then opposite the village.

The breeze died away and a fairly strong current took the brigantine along nearer the reef.

It was impossible, after she missed stays, to do anything; and so she landed in a cleft of the reef, nose first, and there she stayed. It was very calm weather, but she was so firmly fixed that she could not be moved on any of the succeeding high tides, although extremely long kedge ropes were put into use. The water was about 100 fathoms deep, just outside the reef. The island has only a shore reef, all round, and shelves down almost per pendicularly.

The natives built a plaited coconut leaf shed, and we started salvage opera tions.

Nearly all gear was brought ashore, and so also was about 50 tons of copra. Then a strong wind and heavy sea came up, and we were unable for days to go aboard.

By the time the sea had calmed down, the brigantine had shifted much farther on to the reef.

A few more tons of copra were brought ashore, later on, but the brigantine started breaking up and so salvage opera tions ceased.

All of us lived ashore for several weeks, with the exception of the skipper, mate, and two of the crew, who very soon after left in the lifeboat for Funafuti, to report the wreck.

The natives on the island were excep tionally kind and looked after us exceed ingly well, from 5th December, 1925, till the Government yacht “Pioneer” picked us up after the New Year.

And so “Tofa, Jeanette!”

The Ellice Islands have been the grave of several sailing ships and auxiliaries; but none of the Islands are safe in this respect.

The Nanomaga natives are a very happy and contented lot, and most of their time is spent dancing and fishing. The latter is mostly done in canoes at night, after flying fish. These fish are abundant all round the island, just off the reef. Lighted leaves are held by one man in the bow of the canoe; there are two paddlers, and one or two men, each with a small net, shaped like a butterfly net, on a long stick, ready to scoop the fish into the canoe. The fish are attracted by the light and, after a few hours, the canoe returns with hundreds of fish weighing up to 2lbs. each.

Line fishing is indulged in when the weather permits, the fisherman standing almost up to his neck in water at the very edge of the reef. Some fairly weighty fish are caught in this way.

For sustenance, the natives depend al most entirely on fish and coconuts, as only pawpaws, bananas, and pula’a (a species of taro) grow there. The island, being only a coral atoll, there is very little soil, and what there is is planted in food stuffs. The babies are mostly fed on ka leve (coconut toddy) taken fresh from the trees every morning and evening, and they are all fat and healthy.

The native Samoan missionaries of the London Missionary Society generally con trol the younger natives, and, on special occasions, they decorate the village church, which is built of coral, stone, and lime, and has an iron roof.

The dancers keep very good time, in deed, and are quite a picture to see. They practise a lot, and take pride in this ac complishment. To strangers they usually present foodstuffs, such as pula’a and fowls, and give a good display of their dancing ability as an introduction to the presentation.

One can quite easily walk around the island in an hour, along nice white, sandy beaches, and the native boys, when the tide is suitable, indulge in shooting the breakers on top of the reef, with pieces of case wood for surf boards.

The cemetery is about half a mile from the village, and the graves are covered over, some with headstones made with a mixture of coral limestone and sand, and covered again with native made mats; others have a thatched roof, right over the grave. It is customary to put the owner’s eating utensils (such things as plates, cups, spoons, and forks), on top of the grave immediately after the body is interred.